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Maderia Day 4

1st Levada Walk of the holiday

Oh my word I'm tired.  It's been a long but delightful day, full of lots of activity.  An early start and an early breakfast so that we could hop over the road and collect the car to begin our adventures by car on the island.  Hertz always does us well and despite them insisting that we needed an upgrade to a bigger car and more power engine we escaped with a little Diahatsu which suited us find. I have every confidence in Eddie's driving ability, however I don't trust the Maderian drivers who see the newish Via Rapida as a go kart track where no rules apply to the spead or approach on the slip road to getting on the road.  The Maderians have, over the past eight years built more tunnels through more hillsides than I've had hot dinners.  They don't just build the tunnels but follow the contours of the coast line present the driver with some bends which would make the best racing driver turn pale with fright.  I have been known to spend the entire journey hanging on desperately to the handle over the passengerside door in fear of my life.  However, I digress.  Let's talk about what exploits we have been up to today.

Our first visit was to the village of Santana, on the north of the Island.  Santana is principally famous for its Traditional Maderian houses.  Although these have been decorated in reputedly traditional colours, you can see more realistic houses dotted along the levadas (water channels) in this area.  They are indeed very picturesque but we very warm and house not just families but the animals too.  We just so happened to find a plastic box tucked into the lower roof space of one such house which we managed to retrieve without being observed.  You can even dress up in traditional costume and have your photo taken is you so wish.  ~~We decided to pass on this occasion.  To much to do in too little time.

Off now to Pico das Pedras for our first levada walk of this holiday.  The levadas are water channels built in the 18th century by African slaves.  The water from the mountainous area was then able to flow down the channels and provide fresh water and irrigation for the crops.  These levadas still survive today and make excellent walking routes although some are not for the faint hearted as they are particularly vertiginous,  

Fount it!

Having parked our car we set off along a broad path lined with many ancient  pines and eucalyptous trees.  Imagine is you will, having the most awful nasal congestion for which only a inhalation of Vick will do.  Well, okay not quite the same expereience but the eucalyptous scent is absolutely divine and refreshes the spirit and sense of well being.  Really love this part of the island.  If only I could bottle it.  I'd make a fortune.  The walk along this stretch of levada was easy going and offered the opportunity for Eddie to go off the path a few yards and retrieve... yes you've guessed it, a cache.  

The ducks live in very posh houses

A bird feeding from the hand is great fun

Part two of our levada walk took us to Calherio de verde (The Green Pool)  The levada started off at a beautiful maderian house with some elegant duck houses, not paid for by the government.  As we moved on past the four trunked pine tree the path became a little more challenging. Vertiginous drops were accessible by post and sturdy wire structures which Eddie was able to hold onto firmly.  We did have a couple of incidents where the water was pouring down the hillside and there was no option but to go forward feeling the full force of icy cold water as it permeated our thin teeshirts.  Some of us were wise enough to be wearing a hoodie.   

Green Pools

Vertiginous drops!

End of the journey, now to go back.

Back at the car we went to the Rancho for a cup of coffee.   A great opportunity  for setting up a fantastic tea shop/coffee house/b&b.  Anyone interested in an investment.  An earth cache looking at Basalt Columns on this volcanic island and we headed back to the hotel.  Tired but highly entertained by our days exploits. incluiding dodging the awful traffic on the Maderian Via Rapida.  After a lovely meal at the Italian Restaurant we collapsed into our beds exhausted.  No book reading tonight.

Ready for the rest of our exploits?